Whether people realize it or not, fashion is everywhere and incorporated into our every-day lives. It's an industry worth $1.2 trillion and more than $250 billion is spent annually in the United States (The Economic Impact of the Fashion Industry). It's an industry composed of designers, buyers, creative directors, models, etc., and there's a lot of creativity and diversity that flows throughout it every day. However, with all of these different visions, the one aspect that almost all of fashion can agree on are its models. Fashion has long been obsessed with young, thin girls to model the latest trends on the runway, in ad-campaigns, and in magazines. This idea is emphasized with the 1960's British supermodel, Twiggy who earned her nickname from being so thin she was literally "twig-like". However, even though there has been a great increase in the amount of malnourished models in the past 20 years, it hasn't been until very recently that the fashion industry has actually begun to do something about it. There are still discussions concerning this issue in multiple countries today and argument about what method would be the best way to protect each models' health. Some countries believe that "policing" the fashion industry by creating laws and regulations is the best way to solve this problem; however, other countries, such as the United States, believe that creating a healthier atmosphere is the more efficient solution. Those countries in favor of regulating the models' health say that measuring one's body mass index, or BMI, is the most general way to view one's health. This, essentially, is one's weight divided by their height and it gives a quick overview of one's health based off of their height to weight ratio (Admin). So although the use of BMI to determine a model's health is a genuine attempt towards changing the expectations of models' sizes, it is not a solution to this complex and serious issue. Instead, a healthier environment should be made present in every aspect of the fashion industry, whether its providing healthy food options backstage at a fashion show or educating the industry about early signs of health disorders. It needs to be made apparent that health is beauty and that no model, or woman for that matter, should feel pressure to be a particular size in order to feel they have captured that fantasized, yet unrealistic definition of "beautiful". 

With eating disorders becoming more and more common at the same time that sample sizes are becoming smaller and smaller, many countries have made an effort towards redefining what it means to be a model in the fashion industry. The first law to be passed in an effort to improve the health of the modeling industry was in Madrid, Spain in 2006. It stated that each model must have a BMI of at least 18, an indicator of malnutrition according to the World Health Organization (WHO), in order to be hired by any designer or agency (Beyerstein). As a result, approximately 30% of Spain's models "failed the test" and were deemed unhealthy to work (CNN). That same year, Milan, Italy passed a very similar law requiring an 18.5 BMI, and seven years after that, Israel followed in their footsteps (Mau). However, it wasn't until 2015 when Paris, France created its own law that the matter immediately became extremely serious and gathered much attention worldwide. 

Paris is the ultimate fashion capital of the world and ultimately, the epicenter of haute couture. It is home to some of the most iconic and well known high-fashion labels such as Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Valentino, and Hermes, (just to name a few). In addition to Paris designers being so well-known for their high-fashion, one-of-a-kind designs, French models have begun to make a name for themselves too: "Paris thin" (Record). So naturally, when Paris passed its own BMI law, it shook the fashion industry. This new law stated that models must have a BMI of at least 18 and any agency who decided to disregard it would be burdened with a fine of 75,000 euros ($82,000) and would face jail time of up to six months. This law also included that any website encouraging a reader to "seek excessive thinness by encouraging eating restrictions for a prolonged period of time, resulting in risk of mortality or damage to health" would be fined up to 100,000 euros ($114,020) and no more than a year in prison (Picy). If the designers did not comply, they would not be able to participate in arguably the largest event in the fashion world: Paris Fashion Week. In 2015, the largest show at Paris Fashion Week was Chanel with 2,600 guests and total, fashion week's economic impact on Paris, excluding sales in stores, was 400 million euros ($430 million) (Platt). Obviously, if a designer is unable to show their collection in the greatest event of the fashion world, they are missing a huge opportunity to gain publicity and expand their clientele. Although these laws that have recently been passed may seem effective, they will not be long term. Setting a standard BMI is equivalent to setting a standard sample size; therefore, a model's natural body and health are still secondary, which is the root of the problem. 

As mentioned earlier, Italy, Spain, Israel, France, and even a few more countries, have all passed laws in an effort to protect fashion models and combat the relationship between anorexia nervosa and the fashion industry. So where does the United States stand in this matter? Essentially, the United States has not created any laws thus far; however, their main concern, according to Steven Kolb, the CEO of the Council of Fashion Designers of America, or the CFDA, is to "create awareness and education" about the issue and he believes it is their responsibility to do so. He also mentioned that their policy was never to "enforce or mandate" and laws because they won't lead to a long-term change (Mau).  

The CFDA was founded in 1962 and is a non-profit trade organization consisting of more than 400 American clothing and accessory designers from Michael Kors, Zac Posen, and Tory Burch. Diane Von Furstenberg, an extremely well-known designer notorious for her wrap dresses, is the president of this association. In June 2011, she wrote a letter to the entire fashion industry that clearly stated that she has not nor will hire any model under the age of 16 and that identification will be required from all models who are booked for her shows (CFDA). She also stated that, "Designers share a responsibility to protect women, and very young girls in particular ...  sending the message that beauty is health" (Abraham). Due to her mission as a designer to make women feel empowered yet elegant, she is the perfect person for the position. 

Thus far, Von Furstenberg has made quite the impact on the industry because in January of 2007, she and the CFDA began a health initiative concerning the major global debate about models who are naturally thin and if there needs to be health restrictions and guidelines. In order to do its part in helping to improve the health of the fashion industry and to create an atmosphere that promotes healthy women, the CFDA decided to make it their mission to raise awareness about anorexia nervosa and other eating disorders and to provide education. They decided not to "police" the modeling industry by creating laws because they believe that eating disorders are " ... emotional disorders that have psychological, behavior, social, and physical manifestations, of which body weight is only one" (CFDA). In order to support this belief, in September 2014, the CFDA partnered with Digg Inn, a discounted restaurant that provides backstage catering for all CFDA members. Raising awareness and educating the industry about the severity of models' health is what will make a long-lasting effect that is desperately needed. Prioritizing health over a particular number (weight, sample size, BMI) is going to be the key to fixing this major problem.

Although many are in favor of these new rules and regulations concerning BMI, there is still so much controversy surrounding it. But if it's fairly easy and fast to calculate while giving an overall look at one's health, then what is the problem? BMI fails to consider one's metabolism, bone density, or body shape, and it also neglects to differentiate between fat and muscle mass (Admin). These are critical when it comes to differentiating one body from another. For one, because muscle weighs more than fat, an extremely fit and healthy person may appear obese on the BMI scale considering their great amount of muscle. To expand on that idea, someone with strong and healthy bones is going to have a greater bone density considering bone is denser than muscle and twice as dense as fat (Admin). On the opposite side of the spectrum, the BMI scale could accuse a naturally thin and slender model of being unhealthily underweight, therefore banning her from making a paycheck, even though she may be perfectly healthy internally. There is so much more to consider when determining one's health than just their height to weight ratio, which is why the new laws using the BMI scale are not going to be the best solution to this issue. 

In addition, modeling agencies have become extremely sneaky when it comes to cheating "the system". For example, agencies have previously encouraged models who they know will not meet the required BMI to hide small weights in their hair or underwear in order to make them appear heavier on the scale. In order to combat this, Israel has made it a requirement for each model to provide a medical report no older than three months before participating in a photo shoot in order to further ensure each model's health (Persad). However, having to get a physical once every three months is very excessive and especially during busy fashion seasons, it would be extremely inconvenient for models. On top of BMI not being a completely accurate measure of overall health, it also dismisses any psychological or emotional signs of eating disorders, which makes this issue so much deeper and complicated than what it appears. This is why industry professionals should become educated about signs of eating disorders, how they should be approached, and what can be done to combat them. Providing this education and spreading this awareness would be so beneficial towards truly revolutionizing the fashion industry.

Another fault the BMI system has is that it continues to set a certain quota that the models have to meet in order to work. This only difference with these new laws is that instead of requiring a size 0, it's now a BMI of 18. Today, the expectation of a model is to be 6'0", stick thin, and without any curves. Essentially, most designers like to look at their models as "clothes hangers": easy to dress and easy to fit. So although the BMI scale encourages a more realistic and healthier quota, it's a quota nonetheless.  And that's just the point. A woman cannot change the natural shape of her body. Take Iskra Lawrence for example who is considered a plus-size model. Iskra Lawrence is a current model for Aerie, a line of underwear and bras, who prides herself on her curves. When Lawrence made the contract with Aerie, she had them agree to making the ad campaign without any retouches. She wanted to prove that a woman's real body, without filters or touch-ups, is beautiful regardless of its shape or size. However, as the managing editor of her own website, Runway Riot, she preaches the importance of loving the skin you're in, whether you're a size 4 or size 14 (Runway Riot). She describes how she works out three to four times a week and doesn't restrict herself to the amount of food she eats. Instead, she focuses on eating healthy and clean. Because she does this, she knows she is taking proper care of her body and how her body reacts to it is perfectly fine because she knows that it's what's natural for her. And what's natural for one body, may not be for the other. As was stated earlier, a woman cannot change the natural shape of her body. In conclusion, the point Lawrence is trying to make is that models, or really anybody for that matter, should be concerned about treating their bodies well and that ultimately, that's all that matters---not the numbers that appear on the scale. 

In addition, BMI cannot identify the difference between a naturally thin woman and a malnourished woman. Twiggy, an iconic model from the 1960's, was mentioned earlier and she could quite possibly be credited with popularizing the "thin look". However, that was her natural body. In an interview with The Daily Mail, Twiggy discussed her memories growing up and her experiences in the modeling industry. She discussed how she was " ... blamed for anorexia back in the '60s, which was unfair because I ate like a horse" (Wigg). And that truly is the case for many girls today; however, it is not true all the time and it can't be assumed either. Twiggy also mentioned how growing up, her family ate very well. Her mother used to shop at supermarkets every other day where she would buy fresh vegetables and meat, which only proves that a healthy diet is the start of a healthy life. Currently, models are only worried about fitting a certain size and will strictly live off of ice cubes and possibly a few crackers for months; therefore, neglecting their body of the key nutrients it needs. This is why it is key that the fashion industry promotes and encourages this message. Maybe then models will feel more inclined and comfortable to live a healthy lifestyle, not a "skinny" one.  

Everything the United States is doing, specifically the CFDA, is what will really change the fashion industry in the long-term. Setting the right examples like providing healthy food options at fashion shows will make models feel more comfortable to actually eat and will encourage them to do so. In addition, recognizing that eating disorders are more than just simply not eating is a fact that is often forgotten by many. Like the CFDA has stressed continuously, they are truly illnesses that need more attention than just telling someone to go eat a cheeseburger. And by overlooking this major aspect of the problem, there will not be a change that is long-term and desperately needed in the fashion industry. Making people aware and educated is exactly what this type of change calls for.

Modeling, in my opinion, is one of the toughest jobs in the world. Some may roll their eyes and laugh and say that all that is required is to look good in front of a camera and be able to walk up and down a runway in heels. However, the thing that most people don't consider is that fashion is an art that is seen differently in each creator's mind. What one designer may envision could be completely different from what another envisions. And what one creative director sees as being the next great editorial for a magazine may be completely different to another. Despite the vision, a model's job is to create that piece of art for the client. They basically act as blank canvases for whoever needs them to create their vision that day. In addition, models are constantly being criticized so it doesn't help that they know they have to fit into a size 0 in order to make a paycheck. However, that's the problem: they shouldn't have to fit a certain size. And that is exactly why the BMI laws will not work. They are not enough to completely change the industry.  With all of this being said, it is no longer an excuse for designers, creative directors, photographers, etc., to say that part of their vision is to have a "skinny" model. I don't mean to say that their creative voice must be controlled or policed, but it must be realized that the expectations being set for models is unhealthy. And for what? It has long been said that "skinny" sells, but at this point, I believe that "real" sells. Designers are, in fact, trying to see their garments to grown women who have curves and for whatever reason, designers are choosing young girls to model to a different age group. And when these young girls begin to mature physically and develop hips and breasts---features that define a woman---that's when models are told to lose weight. For some models, the only way they can shrink their size is to literally shave their bones. It is not realistic and certainly not healthy. So whether your "real" is slender and curveless, athletic and muscular, or curvy, that is what should be embraced. If all these beautiful artists who collectively paint the fashion industry every day could be educated about the major concern of eating disorders circulating the fashion industry, I believe they would be more inclined to tweak their visions. Even educating the models about what they are doing to their bodies when they neglect them of the real nutrition they need would be so eye-opening and may even convince them that they can create the change that needs to be seen. The fashion industry is composed of so many different people, jobs, countries, and ideas so I don't believe that one person can change it; however, there are ways to encourage a healthy lifestyle which is what the real change needs to be. In sum, we can no longer set requirements or quotas such as a particular sample size a model must fit or a BMI a model must have. It is time to accept a woman's natural body and realize that a healthy body, is a beautiful body.     

 

